———ਜੱਗ ਉੱਤੇ ਹੋਣਿਆਂ ਲੱਖਾ ਸੋਹਣਿਆਂ, ਕੋਈ ਤੇਰੇ ਵਰਗੀ ਨੀ ਹੋਣੀ, ਸੋਹਣੀ ਲਗੇ ਤੇਰੀ ਫੁਲਕਾਰੀ ਸੋਹਣੀਏ, ਤੂੰ ਫੁਲਕਾਰੀ ਤੋਂ ਵੀ ਸੋਹਣੀ।———
Phulkari, the representation of a traditional Punjabi woman (i.e. the true representation of a ਤ੍ਰਿਨਜਣ), roughly translates to flower work or floral work with Phul meaning flower and akari meaning shape/shaping. The origins of the predominantly feminine textile are debated. Specifically, some researchers and fashion enthusiasts claim that it may have originated in Persia or Central Asia and travelled to Punjab. However, it is more likely that it was born in Punjab itself, deeply rooted in the rich cultural heritage of the region. Given that Phulkari was woven for personal use and within the enclosed household place, it’s historical roots were undocumented until its mentions in Waris Shah’s famous folklore Heer Ranjha. Some scholars also claim that the ‘kasidaan’, a traditional style of embroidery or needlework, was mentioned by other writers and poets of Punjab earlier, which may suggest the existence of Phulkari. Nonetheless, this does not confirm the origins of the Phulkari textile. Though it is now generally associated with the Sardar heritage, it continues to be practiced by people of various caste and religion in Punjab.
There are many forms of Phulkari because the embroidery continues to evolve, but the most relevant clothe to Phulkari would most definitely be the Bagh (meaning “garden”). Baghs and Phulkaris both are meant to celebrate an occasion, such as birth, wedding or pre-wedding, or other important regional festivals (e.g. Lodhi). The base of both is chaunsa khadar, a handspun and handwoven textile made of fine yarn. The most common Bagh embroidery would most probably be the Bawan Bagh. It is a type of bagh embroidered on a red base cloth with rectangular cells, each containing a different geometric motif in threads of various colors. Another more traditional and ritualistic Bagh is Vari*-Da-Bagh, which literally means garden of the wedding trousseau and is made of hand-dyed and hand-woven cloth called khadar using high quality untwisted silk threads called pat that usually came from Kashmir (i.e. now, it come from other locations, such as Assam or down South). It is important to note that before the late 1900s baghs with flowers were made using cluster stitch, which uses additional wraps of yarn. Therefore, such baghs were mostly worn by women belonging to a higher socio-economic class.
In the present day, Phulkaris and Baghs are often done on a variety of materials, including chiffon and lightweight cotton. The whole history of Phulkari, hense, surrounds femininity. It turns out that Punjabi women were already leaving a footprint in the realm of art and craftsmanship long before Phulkari gained recognition by the wider Indian textile industry and on social media.
* Defintion: A vari is the collection of clothing, jewelry, purses, and shoes that a groom’s family would give to their new daughter-in-law as wedding gifts.
ਸਿਰਾਂ ਉੱਤੇ ਸਾਗੀ ਫੁੱਲ, ਲੇਹੰਗੇ ਫੁਲਕਾਰੀਆਂ, ਹੱਥਾਂ ਵਿੱਚ ਪੱਖੀਆਂ ਸ਼ੂਕ ਦਿਆਂ, ਜਿਵੇਂ ਬਾਘੀ ਕੋਈਲਾਂ ਕੂਕ ਦਿਆਂ।